Parking Mode Battery Pack Issue

[Drbwell]

Hi y’all, I’m a new A810 user but long time dashcam user coming from a Blackvue DR750S-2ch. Here is my dilemma; I have a Blackvue B124x battery pack that I want to use parking mode with, but it’s not recognizing it. I connected the dashcam using the plugin lighter adapter the same way I connected my old Blackvue DR750s. It should work but it’s not! This should not be a hardwire issue since it’s not a hardwire application. Any ideas?

 

[BlackboxMyCar]

When you say the battery pack is not recognizing the camera, I assume it's not powering on in any situation, yes?

Are you using the CLA that came with the A810 camera or the BlackVue?

You may need to end up splicing a hardwire kit to connect the camera to the battery.

 

[Drbwell]

No, the camera powers up fine and I'm connecting it to the CLA plug, but won't go into Parking mode when the car is left stationary.

 

[Panzer Platform]

No, the camera powers up fine and I'm connecting it to the CLA plug, but won't go into Parking mode when the car is left stationary.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B09TDZ6FWZ

 

[BlackboxMyCar]

Yeah, looks like you'll need to splice a hardwire kit to get it to work with a battery pack. We have a splicing guide here if you need it: https://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/dash-cam-wire-splicing-guide

 

[Daijoubu]

Or if the Blackvue outputs +5V ACC, you can rewrire using the pintout diagram from 4pda

70mai Dash Cam M500 - 4PDA

70mai Dash Cam M500, 2.7k, 5МП, 170°, F2.0, WiFi, GPS, ADAS, eMMC, БЕЗ ЭКРАНА

4pda.to

5V VCC on A04 A09 (VBUS), 5V ACC on B02 (SBU2)

 

[3008]

No, the camera powers up fine and I'm connecting it to the CLA plug, but won't go into Parking mode when the car is left stationary.

I am using CLA plug in too. Experimented the following:
I did a tried on my china version, and it works but the recording looks permanently, as the green light is always ON. (After Car engine off)
I am still exploring whether this permanently work.

1) On the recorder, manually search for function relating to Parking mode > select something similar to "Select = Do not off the recorder automatically".
Do not use recorder switch off in 5 or 10mins

2) In the APP, you can search for device setting > Parking Security > Time-Lapse = Turn ON.

Please try and reply with your findings.

 

[Daijoubu]

You need the hardwire kit to enable parking mode, it needs the ACC wire hooked up

 

[3008]

You need the hardwire kit to enable parking mode, it needs the ACC wire hooked up

Yes, I had the hardwire kit installed to my ACC wire.
But the issue is how do we operate (to turn on or off the parking recording function), using the APP or the recorder setting?

Btw do you know how to activate the RS effect? I am exploring on how to enable this RS effect to looks like gaming recording.

Thanks

 

[Daijoubu]

You can use either the app or the settings menu to enable/disable the parking functions, collision (lowest), motion (highest consumption) or time lapse (low/medium)
The dashcam must detect the hardwire kit/ACC wire must be energized

RS effect can be enabled while viewing or if you download a clip, you can then save/export it with the effects

 

[BlackboxMyCar]

The battery pack should have a 3-wire output with an ACC lead that turns on and off as the battery stops and starts charging with the vehicle. While it's wonderful that BlackVue cameras don't require this for the camera to go into parking mode, instead relying on the motion of the vehicle, plenty of other brands actually need the signal itself, or other methods.

If you do not have a 3-wire output cable for the battery, you'll need one.

 

[Drbwell]

A hardwire kit to use a battery is counter intuitive?

 

[Daijoubu]

Not ideal, also given the low voltage cutoff can't fully use the battery pack but easiest way to get parking mode working.
Otherwise you'll have to make your own custom USB Type cable and need to source an ACC switched 5V and wire it to the Type-C connector to SBU pins

With the help of a breakout board, eg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B091TGNWBV

 

[Panzer Platform]

A hardwire kit to use a battery is counter intuitive?

Incorrect.

 

[BlackboxMyCar]

Hey guys, I think there's some misconceptions here.

When I'm talking about the hardwire kit for the camera, this would only be connecting the camera to the battery pack. No voltage cut-off should really be engaged here, since the battery pack should consistently clear the cut-off until it fully drains, as it's designed. The sole function of using the camera's hardwire kit here is to tell the camera when to go into parking mode. While less untitutive than your previous BlackVue setup, this is how countless camera brands work when connected to a battery pack.

As pointed out by Chuck, hardwiring a battery pack is not counterintuitive. Hardwiring the battery itself is totally separate from everything mentioned above, and has the benefit of charging quicker than using a CLA. The battery should still only be charging when the vehicle is on.

 

[rcg530]

Hey guys, I think there's some misconceptions here.

When I'm talking about the hardwire kit for the camera, this would only be connecting the camera to the battery pack. No voltage cut-off should really be engaged here, since the battery pack should consistently clear the cut-off until it fully drains, as it's designed. The sole function of using the camera's hardwire kit here is to tell the camera when to go into parking mode. While less untitutive than your previous BlackVue setup, this is how countless camera brands work when connected to a battery pack.

When the dash camera is powered by 12-volt power directly, the hardwire kit is a simple cable with three wires to pass the battery pack power (constant, accessory, ground) into the dash camera. Any low voltage cutoff in this configuration would be handled by the dash camera itself.

Most (if not all) EGEN produced battery packs will provide "12-volt" power with a varying voltage levels based on the charge level of the battery pack. The battery pack's output voltage level will decrease to about 11.0 volts when the battery pack nears its internal power cutoff (internal batteries near a 0 percent charge level).

A hardwire kit with a 12-volt to 5-volt power adapter which also includes a low voltage cutoff feature will not take full advantage of the battery pack's batteries since the hardwire kit will turn off the dash camera power long before the battery pack's output voltage reaches 11.0 volts. The hardwire kit will either have an internal fixed low voltage cutoff voltage value or have slide or dip switches to configure at what "12-volt / 24-volt" input voltage level to turn off the power to the dash camera. To date, I have never encountered a hardwire kit for a USB powered dash camera that allows you to disable the "12-volt / 24-volt" input low voltage cutoff feature or allows it to be set to a value as low as 11.0 volts.

At this time, all USB powered dash cameras (that I know of) when powered by a hardwire kit which receives its "12-volt" power from a dash camera battery pack will not take full advantage of the storage capacity of the dash camera battery pack's internal batteries.

Since the 70mai dash cameras are USB powered dash cameras and their hardwire kits have an internal low voltage cutoff feature, they will not take full advantage of a dash camera battery pack for the reasons stated above.

 

[Daijoubu]

To disable it on the UP03 kit, one can replace the R17 10k resistor (markings 01C) with 11k or higher (resulting in 10.8V cutoff voltage) or 12k for 10V cutoff
See my post in this thread, I've modded my cutoff voltage to 12.4V

Hardwire kit for A810

Got the early deal on the 70mai A810 including the back camera and hardwire kit. Notice that the cutoff voltage on the hardwire kit is 11.4 Volts which makes the state of charge of the battery dangerously low, in my opinion. Can anyone recommend another hardwire kit with an adjustable voltage...

dashcamtalk.com

If those battery packs are in a 4S configuration, ~12V cutoff is actually not bad, healthy for the battery (~3V cutoff) for Li-on cells with 3.7V nominal voltage
Some chemistry such as the LiFePO4 with 3.2-3.6V typ voltage allows discharging all the way down to 2.5V per cell, 10V

If replacing SMD resistor is too hard, you can connect another resistor in parallel to R13 to lower its value
If you put 470k in parallel with the 102k (marked 02D), you'll get 9.9V cutoff (510k for 10V or 1300k to get 11V)

You can solder that resistor between negative leg of D3 and pin 4 of U3

 

[Nigel]

If those battery packs are in a 4S configuration, ~12V cutoff is actually not bad, healthy for the battery (~3V cutoff) for Li-on cells with 3.7V nominal voltage
Some chemistry such as the LiFePO4 with 3.2-3.6V typ voltage allows discharging all the way down to 2.5V per cell, 10V

They will be 4S LiFePO4, so 12V is a little high, maximum you want is 11.8,. 11.4 volt cut-off is fine, becuase although they will go down to 10V, there is hardly any power left by 11.4V.

A hardwire kit to use a battery is counter intuitive?

That is the whole point of a hardwire kit, normally to use the car battery, but it doesn't matter what sort of battery. Some batteries have their own low voltage cut-off, but the cut-off is only one function of a hardwire kit.

 

[Daijoubu]

Well I looked at some discharge curves for 3.2V LiFePO4 and at 3V, you're down to 10%
So 12V cutoff is perfectly fine imo, if you want the cells to last longer I wouldn't discharge past 20% SoC

 

[Nigel]

Well I looked at some discharge curves for 3.2V LiFePO4 and at 3V, you're down to 10%
So 12V cutoff is perfectly fine imo, if you want the cells to last longer I wouldn't discharge past 20% SoC

At "room temperature", but you'r in Canada, so look up what happens at -20 degrees C