Parking Battery-Power Station, 3X capacity and 3X cheaper than dedicated options + extra functionality

[EricSan]

This looks like a good setup for dual charging while the engine is running and solar charging when the engine is off. Depending on the ACTUAL current draw when the battery is charging, the 10A fuse may or may not be enough. It's best to measure this with a meter while it is charging so you know the actual charging current. There are some other posts on this forum that indicate recharge rates for parking batteries may be far higher than claimed by the manufacturer. Also, you want to make sure that you are using heavy gauge wire from your car battery to at least the split point for your relays since this single wire will be feeding both recharge circuits. I would recommend a minimum of 14ga wire here. The rest looks good to me.

 

[kawayanan]

This looks like a good setup for dual charging while the engine is running and solar charging when the engine is off. Depending on the ACTUAL current draw when the battery is charging, the 10A fuse may or may not be enough. It's best to measure this with a meter while it is charging so you know the actual charging current. There are some other posts on this forum that indicate recharge rates for parking batteries may be far higher than claimed by the manufacturer. Also, you want to make sure that you are using heavy gauge wire from your car battery to at least the split point for your relays since this single wire will be feeding both recharge circuits. I would recommend a minimum of 14ga wire here. The rest looks good to me.

Thanks for the reply. I definitely plan on checking the actual current. The N-300 manual claims 16V, 4A for the wall adapter and 12V, 4A for the car port adapter. I'll have to check if it actually tries to draw more than 4A.

I already got some 14ga wire . In case anyone is interested, Amazon had what seems like a very good price for red Southwire14ga THHN stranded copper wire ($8.46 for 50'). I can only find that price for red for some reason (it is actually red even if the picture looks pink). All the other colors are more than twice the price. The same thing at Lowes is $23 (black). It seemed to be a strange anomaly or maybe a pricing mistake. The same in black is more expensive for 25'. It didn't seem to be a knockoff either (is on Southwire's storefront and what I received was exactly what I would expect).

 

[GPak]

........
Do I need to worry about the power from the battery to the 12V input on the power station not being having anything to limit the amperage draw (other than what the power station limits itself to and the 10A fuse)?

I believe (remember from my tests) that N-150 has a 2A charging limit and N-300 has 4A internal limit, but still as @EricSan suggested and you confirmed it is better to check.
Otherwise the diagram looks good providing complete de-coupling of solar and DC charging

 

[menas]

I posted couple of videos on LTO battery thread, where I use "UPS" or "Dual Power Transfer Switch" to de-couple power for DVR from power components inside the battery.

The first UPS (the red one used for LTO battery) is not adjustable and is for 12V system only, I tested it separately with power station and Viofo A229 Plus, and it works! Flawless switching.
Then I tested the second, black adjustable UPS, per spec operating voltage range is 6V-12V, however I was able to adjust it for 5V.
Unfortunately, with 5V setting, it works fine for Mini 2 but not switching fast enough for A229 Plus, unlike 12V setting which works as good with A229 Plus as the red one.

I am thinking may be to switch my 5V system into 12V, it is easy with my power station not having ON/OFF switch for 12VDC output.

For Ecoflow River 2, I guess, that voltage booster can be replaced with 5V to 12V booster in order to implement UPS if desired, unless it is possible to get inside and make 12VDC switch permanently ON, when station is turned ON.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804211306903.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.166.22b31802zPJlRd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806099424596.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.55.22b31802zPJlRd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Thank you so much to Gpak and the entire community for sharing your knowledge and expertise!

I've been planning to install a Viofo 229 Plus 3-channel dashcam in each of my two cars for months now, following repeated acts of vandalism. I also have the Viofo hardwire kit, and after reading this thread, I purchased 2 Baseus 288Wh power stations (on sale for €140 each on AliExpress).

My questions and concerns are as follows:

1) I bought a Rocoren PD 3.1 140W car charger. The maximum power output, according to the Baseus Powerstation, is barely 50W. The power takes about 1 minute to gradually increase to around 80W, then decreases. Sometimes there are also bugs, like a power output stuck at 14W, or the Powerstation displaying overload, requiring a reset of the Powerstation. This worries me. I've tried it with 2 different power stations and both cables (also PD 3.1, supplied with the Powerstation). I hope the charger is defective, and I've ordered a Baseus and the same Rocoren to try, as ideally, I would need these 140W (or even 100W, but not less).

2) Could you please clarify the connections and the type of UPS that works with the Viofo 229 Plus (or Pro)? Do I necessarily have to remove the voltage controller from the hardwire kit by cutting and soldering it, but then still need a step-down converter to power the dashcam, right? Otherwise, will it burn out?

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[GPak]

Here is an update on Baseus 288Wh power station:

Basically it is working just fine, but there are a couple of issues I’d like to point:

• I got it because 140W charge rate via USB-C PD3.1 port, however that is exactly the feature which is not working. I tried 3 different 140W cigar adapters, including Baseus brand directly from Baseus, occasionally it will work but mostly PS goes to over-power protection mode and you will need to recycle/turn OFF/ON to get out of that mode. (interestingly from the wall PD3.1 charger 140W works all the time, although really it is 128W).
• 100W charge rate works fine but the charger has some kind of “smart” algorithm, based, I guess on state of the charge, temperature, etc. constantly adjusting change rate.
• App shows power IN/OUT and % of charge state - good, but the issue is that when you leave the car and Bluetooth disconnects then after some time you come back to car Bluetooth seams reconnected but app is showing nothing. You need to recycle Power station i.e. turn OFF/ON for app to work.

@menas This post #192 above was posted on Jan 19, 2024

The 140W car chargers are fairly new and for some reason are not working with power station, I suspect car chargers because power station works well with 140W wall charger although at about 128W max due to some efficiency losses I guess.

At that time I even e-mailed Baseus on this issue, but got no response

 

[GPak]

Thank you so much to Gpak and the entire community for sharing your knowledge and expertise!

I've been planning to install a Viofo 229 Plus 3-channel dashcam in each of my two cars for months now, following repeated acts of vandalism. I also have the Viofo hardwire kit, and after reading this thread, I purchased 2 Baseus 288Wh power stations (on sale for €140 each on AliExpress).

My questions and concerns are as follows:

1) I bought a Rocoren PD 3.1 140W car charger. The maximum power output, according to the Baseus Powerstation, is barely 50W. The power takes about 1 minute to gradually increase to around 80W, then decreases. Sometimes there are also bugs, like a power output stuck at 14W, or the Powerstation displaying overload, requiring a reset of the Powerstation. This worries me. I've tried it with 2 different power stations and both cables (also PD 3.1, supplied with the Powerstation). I hope the charger is defective, and I've ordered a Baseus and the same Rocoren to try, as ideally, I would need these 140W (or even 100W, but not less).

2) Could you please clarify the connections and the type of UPS that works with the Viofo 229 Plus (or Pro)? Do I necessarily have to remove the voltage controller from the hardwire kit by cutting and soldering it, but then still need a step-down converter to power the dashcam, right? Otherwise, will it burn out?

Thank you in advance for your help!

Since the time I tested it, there were a couple of App updates, not sure if that fixed this issue, I doubt.
Also, I have not checked if there is any firmware update available on their site.

On your questions:
1) I would suggest to use 100W USB-C car chargers with 100W or above rated cables, or actually you can use included cigar lighter 12VDC cable which will also charge at about 100W max.
Keep in mind that charge circuit is kind of “smart” and will adjust max charge rate based on whatever it takes in account, I am guessing temperature, state of the charge, etc.

2) You only need to remove voltage controller from HK4 kit if you run 5V system using power stations USB-A ports, but in that case none of UPS will work.
I strongly suggest to run 12V system using 12VDC 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel socket, Baseus PS allows for that. Then you do not need to remove HK4 voltage controller, and the following UPS will work in 12V system with A229 Plus 2ch, I think 3ch should not make difference.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806099424596.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.55.22b31802zPJlRd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

P.S. the reference to step down converters is for DIY LTO Battery Pack, not for Power Stations.

 

[EricSan]

Argh!!! I toasted the center console utility outlet in my son's 2014 mustang by charging the EcoFlow with the wiring schematic that I posted above. I'm really annoyed as this application clearly fits within the stated safe operating area of the outlet. The outlet is fused with a 20A (240w) fuse that is still intact. The manual says never draw more than 180w from the utility outlet (15A), so they've derated the fuse value. The EcoFlow River charges at a maximum of about 9A (despite it's 8A setting), so I'm still well below the 15A rating. And now the outlet doesn't work. Although I am able to identify the specific fuse that is supposed to protect the outlet, I pulled EVERY fuse (both under the hood and inside the car) to look for a dead fuse and they are ALL good. The outer barrel of the outlet still has connectivity to the car's ground system. Removing the fuse under the hood, I can also verify that the fuse is being supplied with power. I even swapped the fuses for the two utility outlets. Still dead. I also separated the under hood fusebox to expose the wiring harnesses so I could access the specific wire that comes from that fuse. It is still soundly attached to the fuse housing, though it is thinner than I would expect for a wire attached to a 20A fuse.

Now I have to see if I can remove the center console to look at the wiring harness that attaches to the back of utility outlet. I'm hoping the plastic clip that connects the rear of the outlet to the chassis wiring melted or became detached. The part the gets me mad is that I specifically chose this implementation because it would be well below the ampere limits (drawing 9A from an outlet rated for 15A) stated in the manual. Seems this part of the car was under-engineered. Not the first time I've come across improper parts ratings with consumer-grade electronics...

I wired it this way because I couldn't find a place to run a wire through the firewall to directly tap the car battery.

 

[EricSan]

Update: not my fault. The problem is an intermittent electrical connection within the utility outlet itself. Either it has degraded due to prior use or it’s just a poorly manufactured part. I was able to heat the outlet and get some solder on the two pieces that are in intermittent contact, but I’m not sure how long that will last. If it continues to be a problem, I’ll either replace the outlet or tap the wires before the harness. I’m enormously relieved to learn that the problem is not a result of my wiring!

 

[GPak]

Update: not my fault. The problem is an intermittent electrical connection within the utility outlet itself. Either it has degraded due to prior use or it’s just a poorly manufactured part. I was able to heat the outlet and get some solder on the two pieces that are in intermittent contact, but I’m not sure how long that will last. If it continues to be a problem, I’ll either replace the outlet or tap the wires before the harness. I’m enormously relieved to learn that the problem is not a result of my wiring!

Your wiring is strait forward, it was clear that the issue has nothing to do with wiring, although I usually prefer to terminate black ground coming out of 5V converter and only use Yellow signal, but that is in a low power side going to DVR.

The cigar sockets are not really a good quality in any car, my Jeep is rated for 13A but the wires look too thin, not really suited for the rated current and they get quite hot around 10A.

It is a relief when you found the source of the problem and fixed it! and especially when it's not your fault!

 

[EricSan]

I usually prefer to terminate black ground coming out of 5V converter

It was quite a relief, I was feeling like I broke his expensive new toy…

When you say “terminate” do you mean that you just leave it hanging and not connected to the rest of the circuit? Or do you mean it’s connected somewhere else? The black wire on the regulator is a straight shot through the circuit from input to output. I don’t like leaving a positive voltage without a ground reference. In another circuit I was working on some time ago, the ground plane was significantly elevated above the earth reference until I joined them. Creating a single ground reference point eliminated some gremlins in that circuit.

 

[GPak]

By "terminate" I mean tape it up and leave unconnected.
Necespow N150/N300 power stations are non-isolated straight through ground design, hence all grounds should be interconnected.
Yet, somehow when I would connect ACC 5V converter ground to PS output ground as shown on you diagram it would effect charging rate, significantly reducing it, I am not sure why.
Also these power stations when you turn it off, actually cut the ground and the positive stays on and life all the time.

I am not sure how the EcoFlow works.

 

[menas]

Since the time I tested it, there were a couple of App updates, not sure if that fixed this issue, I doubt.
Also, I have not checked if there is any firmware update available on their site.

On your questions:
1) I would suggest to use 100W USB-C car chargers with 100W or above rated cables, or actually you can use included cigar lighter 12VDC cable which will also charge at about 100W max.
Keep in mind that charge circuit is kind of “smart” and will adjust max charge rate based on whatever it takes in account, I am guessing temperature, state of the charge, etc.

2) You only need to remove voltage controller from HK4 kit if you run 5V system using power stations USB-A ports, but in that case none of UPS will work.
I strongly suggest to run 12V system using 12VDC 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel socket, Baseus PS allows for that. Then you do not need to remove HK4 voltage controller, and the following UPS will work in 12V system with A229 Plus 2ch, I think 3ch should not make difference.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806099424596.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.55.22b31802zPJlRd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

P.S. the reference to step down converters is for DIY LTO Battery Pack, not for Power Stations.

Thank you very much for the clarification. It seems that on the european Baseus PS there is no such cigar socket charger provided, I just have the solar panel cable. Therefore if I understand you well, I should purchase a generic cable and plug itnto the solar panel input of the PS?

FYI, I've received the 140 W Baseus cigar socket charger I had ordered before your advice: not only it only provides 40 W lone the other brand (at ca. 28.2 according to the Baseus cigar lighter charger display, but also it has apparently discharged my car battery just after 2-3 minutes of testing! (I cannot start my car).

I hope I'll be able to provide these 100 W using a generic cigar lighter to barrel cable (again, if I understand you well and if the european version of the PS is not too different to the US version).

 

[GPak]

Thank you very much for the clarification. It seems that on the european Baseus PS there is no such cigar socket charger provided, I just have the solar panel cable. Therefore if I understand you well, I should purchase a generic cable and plug itnto the solar panel input of the PS?

FYI, I've received the 140 W Baseus cigar socket charger I had ordered before your advice: not only it only provides 40 W lone the other brand (at ca. 28.2 according to the Baseus cigar lighter charger display, but also it has apparently discharged my car battery just after 2-3 minutes of testing! (I cannot start my car).

I hope I'll be able to provide these 100 W using a generic cigar lighter to barrel cable (again, if I understand you well and if the european version of the PS is not too different to the US version).

In your first post you mentioned that you have a Baseus 288Wh version. That is exactly what I have, please check my posts #49 and #197, does your unit looks like that?
Here is the product link:
https://www.baseus.com/products/iota-portable-power-station-420w
If so, you do not need to buy anything it comes with 12V Cig Charge cable to 5521 barrel plug from factory, and the unit has 12V, 5521 IN socket.

However,

From what I am hearing, in your second post, you may have Baseus 153Wh version which does not have 12V 5521 IN socket, and you definitely don’t need to buy anything.
Here is the product link:
https://www.baseus.com/products/iot...82477&pr_ref_pid=6873359155277&pr_seq=uniform
If that is the case, the only option to charge is with USB-C PD3.1.
As I mentioned in my previous post 140W charging rate is not reliable.
I am using Baseus 100W rated Cig Charger with 100W or above rated USB-C cable. (Any 100W rated Charger will work).
Keep in mind that this PC charging algorithm is kind of “smart” and charges at variable rate, and max rate is not constant, depending on some known only to this PS factors.

I am not sure how the charger could discharge your car battery.
First of all make sure your car Cig Socket is ACC powered, i.e. it only provides power when ignition is ON and make sure you start the engine so the charging happens with Engine running, in that case you PS is powered by Alternator and not the car Battery.

 

[menas]

Dear GPak and all,
I confirm that I have the 288 Wh version, but it seems that the European version is different (e.g. 450 W instead of 420 W, and no such car socket cable provided. There's however the solar panel barrel input, not sure if it's purely analog, or if there is a kind of protocol regulating it. Pictures in attachment).
Should I build my own 100 W charger then, by paying attention to using 10 AWG (or so) cables?

 

[GPak]

Dear GPak and all,
I confirm that I have the 288 Wh version, but it seems that the European version is different (e.g. 450 W instead of 420 W, and no such car socket cable provided. There's however the solar panel barrel input, not sure if it's purely analog, or if there is a kind of protocol regulating it. Pictures in attachment).
Should I build my own 100 W charger then, by paying attention to using 10 AWG (or so) cables?

OK, we are clear now. It is basically the same as my unit except 220VAC and 450W AC output rating.
Here what you need to charge it from Car:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B088NCT4H8
It has a 15A fuse an 16AWG enough for 100W charging rate, use the shorter 4FT one if you can.
Any other similar product will work.
I would prefer 14AWG, especially if longer 10FT cable is needed, but I could not find one with 5521 barrel plug.
No need for heavier than this wires.

 

[menas]

OK, we are clear now. It is basically the same as my unit except 220VAC and 450W AC output rating.
Here what you need to charge it from Car:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B088NCT4H8
It has a 15A fuse an 16AWG enough for 100W charging rate, use the shorter one if you can.
Any other similar product will work.
I would prefer 14AWG, but I could not find one with 5521 barrel plug.
No need for heavier than this wires.

Thanks a lot! Have a nice weekend