Complete Review of G1W-C CAPACITOR based dash camera NT96650 + AR0330 1080p / 30Fps

Kevman, Is this is a light circuit which comes on when the handle is pulled, then the light goes out when the car is started? If so a different circuit may get you going. The windshield wiper, turn signal, or radio circuits are usually good choices for power only when the car is running, but others may also work. You need one which is not interrupted when going from "run" to "start" with the key as the momentary power loss can shut the camera down.

Battery cams can often keep loading through a temporary power loss when starting the car, but capacitor cams may not hold enough power to do that so you need to use a circuit which does not drop out when the key goes to 'start'.

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
Kevman, Is this is a light circuit which comes on when the handle is pulled, then the light goes out when the car is started? If so a different circuit may get you going. The windshield wiper, turn signal, or radio circuits are usually good choices for power only when the car is running, but others may also work. You need one which is not interrupted when going from "run" to "start" with the key as the momentary power loss can shut the camera down.

Battery cams can often keep loading through a temporary power loss when starting the car, but capacitor cams may not hold enough power to do that so you need to use a circuit which does not drop out when the key goes to 'start'.

Phil
Click to expand...

Yes it does interrupt from run to start, my radar detector is on the same circuit, and appears to be on throughout the power cycle process. I liked this circuit becuase it would actually run the camera if anyone tries to open the car door handle, would be good to know if the car is parked somewhere for a while, but it seems that it might not be the best option since the problems I have with it. Will look for another source to tap into at this point.
 
After reading some reviews online I bought the G1W-C as well as a 32gb kingston card from estore009 . The first one that arrived had a dead hardwired power supply but the camera worked pretty good for 4 days.

Cam 1:
One thing that was wrong right away seemed to be recording without the loop feature on. If you do this it records a 4gb file and then stops. The next time the camera is powered it continues recording but this file becomes corrupted/glitchy and it seems to stop recording around the 2gb mark. I tried three different cards; an 8 gb, 16gb and the 32gb i got from estore009. All did the same thing and the camera would not fill up the card. I know that FAT32 has a max file size of 4gb so my guess is the camera has nothing in the firmware to generate a new file when it approaches 4gb.

After 4 days the camera started freezing on startup. Flashing new firmware onto it would allow it to start once but when it was power cycled the firmware would become corrupted again and it would freeze. I'm curious if somehow by not using the loop feature I overloaded the buffer after 4gb and damaged the memory somehow. I returned this one and received a new one fairly quickly....

Cam 2:
Everything on the new camera seems to work properly with a few important exceptions. I haven't tried to turn off the loop feature yet though because up to this point i didnt want to risk ruining the memory on the new one of thats what happened last time. Since ill be returning a second one though I think ill give it a try.

The problem with this once is that the capacitors seem to drain while its off. I didnt have this problem with the first one. If left for more than a few hours powered down (plugged into a usb cord or not) the date and time will reset. This also prevents the camera from starting automatically when its powered back up. I have to press the power button each time to turn it on. I have used three different power supplies to confirm its the camera. The hardwired one and the lighter socket one that came with it as well as a AC wall charger all do the same thing.

There was also another really weird thing with this one in the menu. For some reason the key functions changed for no reason. Normally the up/down arrows on the left, when held, scroll through the numbers/letters/date quicker. But for some weird reason on mine this changed to selecting the next item. For example when setting the date, if i held the arrow key for more than 2 seconds it would do nothing, then when released the button it would select the next input field. I could also use the down arrow key to return to the previous input field. Normally the record button selects the next input field (you cannot go back) and the up/down arrows only change the field. Except in the licence plate menu where for some weird reason the menu button on the top selects the next field and the record button just exits to main menu. It did this twice on me which made setting the date and time annoying because I had to press the buttons so many times since holding the key would cause it to jump to the next item.

I've also noticed that the lighter socket power supply powers up almost instantly but the hardwired one has a 3-4 second delay in supplying 5V once it gets 12V. This is actually good if you have it hooked up to a power source that is interrupted while starting the car as the camera doesnt get a power bump.

I guess I will be returning this camera again...sigh. The video quality is excellent and if functioning properly its a great camera. If the third ones a dud ill be going with something else.
 
I feel for you- I had similar experiences with the G1Wc (different problems) and I'm on cam #3 as well. Actually it's just sitting idle now because I bought a Mobius. With the G1w cams you must realize that while they are not the worst ones made, they are still a mass-produced generic cam made as inexpensively as possible. Good components, good firmware, good support with the right seller, but manufacturing quality seems lacking in a lot of these. My current one worked excellently in all regards giving me what I had expected for the 2 weeks it was in daily use; I only wish I had gotten this one first time around.

If you get a good one I think you'll like this dashcam- it's a great value. But you should be able to have reasonable confidence in your dashcam and with tales like ours I'm not so certain that this is as good a choice as you can make. That's why I decided to spend a little more for something which has proven to be much better. The G1Wc I have will be going to use as a rear cam when I have the time to do the custom install it will need. If this one dies too I'll try to fix it myself or use it for parts on another project. I and the seller have suffered enough over something we neither wanted to have happen or had any control over and I'm not wasting much more time with this cam.

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
I feel for you- I had similar experiences with the G1Wc (different problems) and I'm on cam #3 as well.
Phil
Click to expand...

I'm somewhat hesitant to send it back because the only problem is the parasitic drain of the capacitor but everything else has worked great so far. I tested this one without the loop feature on and it simply records up to the FAT32 max size of 4GB and then stops. You can continue recording if you press record again, i did this and over the day i filled the entire card. I'm worried if i send this back ill get another one with worse problems than this one. It would probably be hard to source the reason for the parasitic drain on the capacitors though. Guess ill roll the dice and get another one.
 
I just received and installed my Blueskysea G1W-C. So far, no issues except audio has a constant clicking sound, but it's not obtrusive. For what it's worth, I'm using a Sandisk 32 GB with no problems.
 
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So these are 5v = 1.5A ... how much power would it use recording continuously for 24hrs? (in MAH for battery related terms)
 
Does anyone have any other firmwares for the G1w-C I can try? I've tried g1w-c-FW.zip hosted at spytecinc and the 2013.1126.16 version posted in this thread posted by Senjaya. Both files were originally named FW96650A.bin. In order to get my device to flash I had to rename them to FWS1088.bin . My Dashcam flashed to these firmwares and starts recording, but the LCD screen does not turn on at all (not even during boot). Unfortunately it seems my dashcam is not compatible with these firmwares.

I also tried the firmwares posted @ https://dashcamtalk.com/g1w/ ( https://dashcamtalk.com/cams/g1w/G1W Firmware estore009. 2014.0108 (S1088_M_Ver1.0).zip and https://dashcamtalk.com/cams/g1w/G1WH firmware.zip ) . My Dashcam LCD worked with these firmwares, but they aren't very compatible with the Capacitor versions as they don't shutdown gracefully when I disconnect the power from my device.

I bought my G1W-CB from https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00P8F3LD0 and so far it doesn't seem to like either of the spytec or the blueseasky firmwares. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Daniel Tate said:
So these are 5v = 1.5A ... how much power would it use recording continuously for 24hrs? (in MAH for battery related terms)
Click to expand...

Simple math: 24 x 1.5, or 36 amp-hours. That translates to 3600mAh. The 1.5A factor isn't a given but that power level will keep almost all cams running; the actual power draw will likely be a little lower with most cams.

If you're considering a power-bank you also need to consider that most of the cheaper ones do not meet their advertised specs from new, and that all will degrade in capacity somewhat over time. Better to get one somewhat bigger than your calculations call for to allow for that.

Phil
 
Isn't it 1A for these cams? I know my G1WH came with a 1A car outlet plug.
 
I haven't measured it so I can't say, but speaking in general terms the 1.5A figure covers almost all cams. When I can I'll measure mine and see. Time and experience has taught me to not completely trust seller-supplied specs for accuracy, especially those figures which can be skewed to make a product look better in comparison to others. And again, if something really matters to you then you're better off giving yourself an extra margin of whatever it is you need than to underestimate and fail.

Phil
 
FYI I purchased 2 G1W-C in July 2014, both worked perfectly right out of the box. One stated acting up last month, it would stop recording and power down for no reason. I checked and replaced the cable and didn't fix it. And I didn't make any changes like firmware or SD card. Way I see it is you get what you pay for, it did lasted 15 months or 5000 miles. I live in San Diego so heat or cold isn't a problem here.
 
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What SD card are you using? My G1WH had a Sandisk card fail and the camera would turn off, I decided to keep the screen on to see what happened and it was actually stopping recording due to a "memory error" and then it would automatically shut down after a few minutes.

Just a wild guess, but it could be it.
 
I just notice I had a typo error, I purchased the dash cam in 2014 not 2015.

I use Kingston 32gb micro SD, works perfectly on both units.

I'm in search of a replacement for the G1W-C.
 
russ331 said:
Consider the BlackSys CF-100 ...
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The G1W-C was my first dashcam, lasted 15 months for $55 USD is unacceptable. I'm done with unreliable dashcam and learn a lesson.

I'll look into this Korean CF-100, the reviews sounds a better quality build dashcam.
 
raulofoside said:
The G1W-C was my first dashcam, lasted 15 months for $55 USD is unacceptable. I'm done with unreliable dashcam and learn a lesson.

I'll look into this Korean CF-100, the reviews sounds a better quality build dashcam.
Click to expand...
I hate cf-100 low bitrate, bad video quality...
 
Hi everybody. i am a new member for this forum. i bought a g1w-c but there is a focus problem on my record. Can you watch this link and can you help me about solving. thx. my car has front window resistance. Do you think is it problem?
 
eren erdoğan said:
Hi everybody. i am a new member for this forum. i bought a g1w-c but there is a focus problem on my record. Can you watch this link and can you help me about solving. thx. my car has front window resistance. Do you think is it problem?
Click to expand...

Yes, the G1W series cameras are prone to that unfortunately. It is relatively easy to fix. You'll need to pop the case open and refocus the lens.
 
Dashmellow said:
Yes, the G1W series cameras are prone to that unfortunately. It is relatively easy to fix. You'll need to pop the case open and refocus the lens.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I will try this. :) is it easy to open case? is there any easy way for opening.
 
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