Preparing for HW Kit install for my first dashcam (Questions)

[Lucky_Day]

I'm getting myself prepared to do a hardwire kit install for the 70mai a810 dashcam in my 2016 Honda Pilot. In looking at the fuse box diagrams, I purchased a couple circuit fuse tap adapters as I wasn't sure if the slots without fuses were active or not.

Tonight I did my best with a multimeter and here were my findings:
a) Empty circuit slots #12, #16, and #42 are enabled - they just didn't have any fuses.
b) Circuits #16 and #42 have constant power when the car is completely off (13.36v)
c) Circuit #12 gets power when the car enters ACC mode (12.53v)

Here are my questions:
1) Does the measured voltage have any effect on the fuse I should use for the HW Kit? Should I be using a 5A fuse in the top port of the tap regardless of any readings I take?
2) Since it looks like I'll be using circuits #42 and #12 that didn't have a fuse in them to begin with, should I just leave the bottom port of the tap empty?
3) Is there a different adapter I should be using if I'm just going to be using circuits that were without fuses?
4) Should I have taken measurements/readings while the car is running?

Not sure if my pictures/notes are of any help or if it will only add confusion, but I'll include them here anyway for reference.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Kremmen]

Dashcams come with a variety of requirements. Add these to your requirements and it can be tricky to find the correct pinout(s)

Honda Euro cars have had a separate 'option connector' port in the fusebox, since 2006, so fuse tapping is not required. The only snag is that the port adapters are tricky to obtain and normally have to be sourced from Japan. Here is a photo of a 2013 Civic option connector in place:

https://www.civinfo.com/threads/group-buy-original-honda-civic-option-connectors.230594/page-3#post-3388233

In the meantime, the main problem with dashcams is, they powerup when the ignition is turned on, then, in a lot of cases, they lose power when you fire the engine so they start to shutdown. During the longer shutdown, whilst the SDCatd file is being closed, the engine has fired, power is restored, but the dashcam doesn't recognise this, as it's still shutting down, so stays off.

From experience I've found the fuses that only powerup with the ignition in position 2 tend to be the ones that don't lose power during engine start.

Good luck

 

[Lucky_Day]

Thank you! I will have to research and see if there is an "option connector" for my car. Circuit 28 is called "option" but I don't know what that means.

In the meantime, it sounds like I need to search for a fuse that doesn't get any power in ACC mode, but does when the car is running.

 

[Kremmen]

I'm not familiar with US Honda's so I can't help any further

 

[Daijoubu]

I would check the 2 empty fuses slots after 30mins, some cars turn off certain circuits after a set amount of time as to no drain the battery (eg interior lights even when you forgot to turn them off)
You don't have to populate the bottom slot if there was nothing there to begin with, I would get 2 or 3A fuses, the dashcam uses under 1A, it is just to protect the wiring in case of a short.

Dashcams shouldn't turn off right away when ACC loses power momentarily during cranking, on the A810 it shutsoff after a few seconds after you take the keys off, it's not instantanous.